





' cc 









{library OF CONGRESS, 



1* 


.=kr'/ie€€ 


,t I 


\ >A 


¥' 

^ 
# 
^ 

A 


1 

i 


iT 






UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 



<2 CI 


^t__ ^^ 


^<c 


^czc<^ 


C^^Kl 


4ti *^C 


Ct'XtCT 


<C!ll'^ C 




. ^icc 


^4f«::L • 


C t_c C 


^^<^CL ^ 




cc<?ici^ZL 


•C1<CL<^/ 


CTcTCCZ 


s^? 


■^jir.c<3Cl, 


^^ 


^ctxdL 


1£^/ 


<^C<3C 


S=^-^ 


<xcc«Qcr 


3E&' 


<2 <X<<C1 




c?f<^<^^3cr 


^d$2^ * 


CTjCc<3CZI. 


, «CL<<c 









CC c 
cg:c 

. CCC 

cc^ cLC<: 

^O CjCC 

'Cv.<Cc 
<^ xcx 
^c ccc 



<3C:ccc:; 
a^e cc 






<?^ 



CSC' 

C2< «^ 



««L 


^CC_ « 


«s: 


rcjcT^ 




: <ai « 


^c<< 


lx<^ <^ 








!^cc ^: 


^ 




^^m 


Cc<;<I 




C<jC^ 




E^CC^rr 


^ca<z 


mr 


CT^^l^ s 



^Kicrc 



c<^ 


■ <^C: 


< 






4 


<::<«: 


<if<' 


< 


«::<:«:r 


CcC 


< 


Cc<c^^ 


CC C 


c 


csr<3s::. 


.. <^c c 


4 


^or^r 


- CCC 


< 
< 






<i'^c_'< 


: .:C?t_ 


< 



^'^ ? 


^- " ■«s«^ ' 


ccz 


<:^c 


_/ .^rc 


<5C ^( 


-cd <at:":< 


' OC 


<2C 


__ *^:-c 


<C 'C 


<:^;< 


:^^ -c-e- < 


cc 


CLC 


7 cs: c 


cc: 


CC 


: c<r^;c 


cc e 


cc: 


r <xr<c 


cc c 


C^d 


CCllC 


CC c 


cc 


cc:; c 

: " ^ac:"' c 


c^ ^ 

CiC c 


:<^'<: 


\. c^c 


1 <iic!i;.,'i c 


- c^: 


cc 


^cm_« c 


cc < 


cc 


<SCL-^ ^ c 


c^ <. 


cc 


^C c^c 


CC_i' 


cc: 


^<ec:^ 


-^KL 


:<<c 




<:c: 


^ cc 


<3cr^ <^cc 


<ac 


cc 


cd: CCC 




cc 


OCT CCC 


ccz:"^' 


cc 


^:z^ «:c: 


<3C< 


cc' < 


*IL C'd 


<c: 


;c 4 


d^ c c 


«: < 


c: < 


^: cd^ 


<c^^ 


:C 4 


P c -c 


' <4C < 


c- < 


1^ c c: 


<k: < 


c ^ 


~ c c 


<gr 4 


- ^^ 


OCT 


^ < 


■ «CI 


: c xi: 


cc « 


<r 


c <r 


^ C 



^: <^. f c 

c: <g:c . c_<; 

C ^c cc. 

< ^<cC 

^ crccc 

cic'^c 

CSCtCC 

<KC<-<< 

CSCcCd 

<rc eccc. 
«rc <42 '^ 



^^^^ ; 

C C<jC « 

"c: c<oC£* 
^ ,C c-«^rT <: 
-C - 

C CCCc c. 

C cdC* << 

c c<c< « 

C ^C«iV^ 

' . crcci2:<«^ 

-' <Lc?K'<c<I. 

CCC<£«1^ 
C5CCSA*^CL 

- C-CC:'< 

• C-cC.^c 
C CC'^^ 

^ c <c: ^ 



«n__ 


^' cGCc-* 


•^d" 


:<' <r^^ c< 


oczz 


«r.«^ «-4 


<dr 


<icrc< 


<3CZ< 


dCc « 


dC^ 


<^crc^ 


<C7 


acz <^ <«: 


<«c 


• <«:::c«t:; 


^^t: 


: arc 4lC 









"^s^ 



THE 

WATCHMAKER'S AND JEWELER'S 

HAND-BOOK: 

A CONCISE YET COMPREHENSIVE TREATISE 

ON THE 

"SEOEETS OF THE TRADE." 

A WORK OF RARE PRACTICAL VALUE TO 

WATCHMAKERS, JEWELERS, SILVERSMITHS, 
GOLD AND SILVER-PLATERS, Etc. 



BEING DESIGNED AS A RELIABLE BOOK OP REFERENCE, IN WHICH MAY BE FOUND 

IN INTELLIGIBLE FORM, THE BEST AND MOST APPROVED PROCESSES KNOWN 

IN THESE IMPORTANT TRADES, TOGETHER WITH OTHER VALUABLE 

MATTER, ADAPTING THE WORK TO THE REQUIREMENTS ' 

OF A GENERAL WATCH, JEWELRY, AND 

FANCY GOODS BUSINESS. 



r^i 




LOUISVILLE, KY.: 
PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR. 

PRINTED BY JOHN P. MORTON & CO. 

1866. 



^^^fl 



<5.V* 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866, 

By C. HOPKINS, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the District of Kentucky. 



"B >^ ^3r 




PREFACE 



There are few trades more difficult in which to acquire accuracy and 
skill than watch repairing, and perhaps few in which greater diversity in 
the modes of operating exist. This arises from the extreme delicacy of the 
instrument to be repaired, the numerous and often for a time imperceptible 
contingencies that arise to mar or impede its operation, and the absence of 
sources of correct knowledge as to the best modes of overcoming these 
diversified contingencies. Various works have been published on the sub- 
ject of Chronometr}^, in some of which, by the aid of diagrams, the peculiar 
structure of the diiferent instruments employed in noting time, as Chro- 
nometer, Duplex, Lever, Horizontal and Cylinder Escapement Watches, 
have been accurately and scientifically explained. But while these works 
have been found of great value to manufl\cturers of watches, in the simple 
daily requirements of watch repairing they have been of little practical 
avail. And, so far as the author is aware, no work, aiming to meet the 
special requirements of this important trade, has been attempted until the 
present time. 

It is a well-known fact that all equally good workmen, in the main, and 
equally acquainted with the general structure of the watch, are not equally 
with each other skilled or successful in performing the same thing or 
things. And, other things being equal, this will invariably be found the 
result of disparity of knowledge of what are usually denominated the 
"secrets of the trade," or the best modes of operating on particular or specific 
points. The practical part of watch repairing, as of other important trades, 
can only be learned at the bench. But while the sources of knowledge 
relating thereto are restricted to verbal or oral instruction, it follows, as a 
necessary consequence, that imperfections and great disparity of knowledge 
in these regards must prevail, and that new or improved processes, the 
results of individual skill and ingenuity, must, from the very nature of 
things, remain from year to year, and perchance from age to age, in ex- 
clusive possession of the few, while the many, for want of available sources 
of information, are excluded from their bene fits altogether. 

No better proof of this is needed than the well-known fact that some of 
the processes known and practiced in Europe for a long series of years past 
are still unknown in this country, or known only to here and there an indi- 
vidual, who from fortuitous circumstances has chanced to be more highly 
favored than the great mass of his cotemporaries in the trade. And the 
same observation applies with equal force in regard to processes in this 
trade — the results of American as of European skill and ingenuity. 
I Therefore, in prepairing the Watchmaker's and Jeweler's Hand-book for 
publication, the author, while avoiding every thing of a merely historic ov 



4 PREFACE. 

descriptive character, has aimed at supplying- to all, as far as possible, the 
means of acquiring a correct knowledge of the various specialties above 
referred to ; which a long practical experience, under peculiarly favorable 
circumstances and extensive travel, with a special view of collecting in- 
formation on these subjects, enable him to do to a much fuller extent than 
under other circumstances would have been at all possible. The value 
placed upon some of these processes by others may be learned from the fact 
that, in more instances than one, gentlemen who understood and were prac- 
ticing single ones of the many here described, have said to the author that 
even §100 would be no temptation to them to part therewith, and thus be 
forced to return to their previous modes of operating. 

With these are given a large number of other processes and formulas, 
which, it is believed, will be found of no less practical value in the depart- 
ments to which they relate^than will those relating to watch repairing, in 
that department. 

The process for gold and silver-plating, without a battery, it is believed 
is one of the best, if not the very best known for general use ; while the 
various steps to be taken therein are so carefully defined that, by following 
the directions, any one, however inexperienced, may operate therewith with 
entire success. Similar remarks, with equal justice, might be made with 
respect to many of the other formulas. It is not, however, presumed nor 
supposed that all the processes herein described will be found new to all 
into whose hands this book may chance to fall ; but believing there are 
few, if any, who may not find therein sufficient of practical value to warrant 
its purchase by them, the author confidently, yet very respec'.fully, com- 
mends his work to the favorable notice and patronage of those for whom 
it ib specially designed. 



WATCHMAKER'S AND JEWELER'S 
HEA-ISTD-BOOK. 



PART FIRST. 

EMBRACING PROCESSES WHEREIN MOST OF THE ARTICLES USED ARE 
EMPLOYED IN LIQUID OR SEMI-LIQUID FORM. 

Section I.— Improved Processes of Gold and Silver Plating, 
without a Battery. 

PREPARATORY SOLUTIONS. 

Solution No. 1. — Recipe — Take enougli rain-water to cover, 
by immersion, whatever article or articles you may desire to plate, 
and dissolve in it sufficient common potash or concentrated lye to 
make the solution strong enough to bear up an ^^'g or small 
potato. Let it settle until quite clear, and then pour off into a 
suitable glass or earthen vessel for use. 

Solution No. 2. — Recipe — Nitric acid, \ oz. ; muriatic acid, 
•i oz.; sheet zinc, \ oz., or as much as will dissolve; muriate of 
potash (fused), \ oz.; sulphate of iron, \ oz.; sulphuric acid, \ oz.; 
sulphuric ether, 4 oz. 

Put the nitric and muriatic acids together into an open glass or 
china vessel, and dissolve in them the zinc, muriate of potash, and 
sulphate of iron; then add the sulphuric acid and ether, and let 
it stand undisturbed in the open air for twenty -four hours. During 
this time a clear yellow liquid will be formed, which drain off 
carefully, and bottle for use. 

GOLD SOLUTION. 

FOR SIXTEEX-CARAT PLATE. 

Recipe — Nitric acid, 1 oz., muriatic acid, 2 oz., (aqua regla); 
silver (pure), \ dwt.; copper (pure), \ dwt.; gold coin, five dol- 
lars (about 5 dwt.) 



6 WATCIIMAKER S AND JEWELERS HAND-BOOK. 

Dissolve the gold, silver, and copper together in the aqua regia, 
and when solution is effected — which, if the acids are good, will 
generally be accomplished in from half an hour to one hour, (the 
silver in this case will not be taken up into solution with the gold 
and copper, but will remain at the bottom of the vessel in the form 
of a white powder — muriate or chloride of silver) — prepare the 
following, and add it by degrees to the solution : 

Recipe — Sulphate of iron, 1 oz.; borax, J oz.; fine table-salt, 
1 dwt. ; pure rain-water, 1 qt. 

In order to dissolve these articles readily, use liot water, and 
powder the borax and sulphate of iron. The office of this solution 
is to precipitate the gold and copper. Let it now stand about six 
hours, or until fully settled; then pour off carefully, and refill the 
vessel with hot rain-water. Let it again settle, and drain as 
before, and continue thus to wash and drain until no acid taste 
nor smell can be perceived; then drain fully, and add 1^ ounce 
cyaniiret j^otassa and 1 quart of hot rain-icater. In twenty-four 
hours it will be ready for use. The substitution of a little plati- 
num as an alloy for the gold, in place of silver and copper, as 
above, will be found to operate very satisftictorily, and to make a 
much harder and more durable gilding or plate than can be pro- 
duced with gold only, or with gold, silver, and copper combined. 

To make pure gold solution^ simply omit or leave out the silver 
and copper from the foregoing formula; or a lighter colored, 
pure gilding, as for watch movements, etc., if preferred, may be 
made by precipitating the gold in the proportions above given, 
with IJ- oz. sulphuret potassa dissolved in 1 qt. hot rain-water, in 
place of the sulphate of iron, borax, and table-salt. 

A darker colored plate, when desired, may be produced by add- 
ing to the gold solution a little dragon's blood and iodid of iron 
in the proportion named in sec. 3. And a lighter shade, by add- 
ing from time to time a few drops of silver or platinum solution. 
The dragon's-blood and iodid of iron may be first dissolved in a 
little alcohol, and then added to the solution as required. 

SILVER SOLUTION. 

Recipe — Best nitric acid, 2 oz.; distilled or pure rain-water, 
J to 2 oz. ; silver, 1 oz. 

First roll or beat the silver pretty thin, cut into strips and drop 
it into the acid; then add the smallest quantity of water named in 
recipe, and let stand for a few minutes. If solution does not 
readily commence, add a little more water, and continue thus to 



WATCHMAKER S AND JEWELER S HAND-BOOK. 7 

add water, a little at a time, until the proper point is reached. 
From twenty minutes to one hour is usually the time required to 
dissolve silver by this process, irrespective of quantity. If from 
any cause, after dissolving for a time, the action of the acid on the 
silver should cease, the addition of a little more water will set it 
to work again usually with increased rapidity. When solution is 
fully effected, fill the vessel with rain-water, and add a large table- 
spoonful of fine table-salt; shake or stir it up well, and let it settle 
same as in the case of gold. When settled, pour off carefully, and 
refill the vessel with rain-water; let settle and drain as before, and 
continue thus to wash and drain until no acid taste can be per- 
ceived ; then drain fully, and add 1 J oz. cyanuret potassa and 1 qt. 
clean rain-water. In twenty-four hours it will be ready for use. 
The nitro-muriate of silver, now undissolved at the bottom of the 
vessel, will serve to feed the solution, or restore it again to full 
strength after it has been used. The same observation applies in 
this regard as well to the gold as silver solution. A stronger so- 
lution may be made at pleasure, and one that will plate more 
rapidly by using a larger quantity of cyanuret potassa. But this 
is not desirable, and should be as a general rule avoided; as a 
better and firmer plate is always produced by using barely suf- 
ficient cyanuret potassa to answer the desired purpose. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR USE. 

First. Immerse the article to be plated, whatever it may be, for 
about fifteen miutes in Preparatory Solution No. 1. Then clean 
it off thoroughly with Spanish whiting and rinse in clean rain- 
water, and while still wet attach to it a piece of sheet zinc, and 
immerse it in the plating solution. After it has been in this solu- 
tion for about one minute take it out, and again clean off with 
whiting as at the first; then return it to the solution; and when 
a heavy plate is desired, clean off in this way two, three, or more 
thnes during the process of plating. 

Second. When the article to be plated is composed of iron, 
steel, lead, pewter, or block-tin, in whole or in part, after treating 
it as per directions for Solution No. 1, and before putting it into 
the plating solution, apply Solution No. 2 with a camel's-hair 
brush or with a bit of sponge to the entire surface, or to such 
part or parts only as you desire the plate to adhere to. The zinc 
should always come into direct and positive contact with the 
article being plated, but may be attached in any way most conven- 
ient to the operator. Probably the best mode, however, is to 



8 watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 

form a hook or loop on a strip of zinc, and with this suspend the 
article in the plating solution. To prevent stain or discoloration 
from its contact with the article, the position of the zinc should 
be occasionally changed or shifted. The thickness of the plate 
will of course depend upon the length of time the article remains 
in the plating solution. This may be varied from a few minutes 
to a whole day, or longer if desired. The solutions should be 
used at a temperature of between 70° and 80°, but in warm 
weather, or in a warm room, they will approach sufficiently near 
the temperature for the purpose. In all processes of plating, 
either with or without a battery, it is a matter of the very first 
importance, and one that should never be carelessly or imperfectly 
attended to, to have the foundation properly prepared, or in other 
words, to have the article to be plated entirely and absolutely 
free from all grease, wax, dirt, stains, discolorations, etc., of what- 
ever character. In most cases, where other means fail, a thorough 
application of the gold or silver powders (see sec. 4) before put- 
ting the article into the plating solution, will lay the foundation 
for a firm, reliable plate. The very best chemicals should always 
be used in preparing the various solutions, and care should be 
taken not to allow them to become mixed with any kind of foreign 
matter. For ■polishing, fine jeweler's rouge, or Spanish whiting 
from which the gritty matter has been removed, will answer a 
good purpose; but a better finish with less loss of plate is always 
produced by properly burnishing. 

To burnish gold, use, when practicable, a blood-stone or agate 
burnisher; and for silver, a finely polished steel burnisher, dipped, 
from time to time, while using, in a strong solution of soap and 
rain-water. 



Section 2.— To Plate with a Battery. 

Make the solutions the same as for plating without a hattery. 
Then, after the article has been properly prepared, as per sec. 1, 
attach it to the positive pole of the battery, and with a piece of 
silver or gold, as the case may be, attached to the negative pole, 
immerse both together in the solution. The solution, under the 
influence of the electric current, will dissolve the gold or silver 
attached to the negative pole of the battery as fast as it is deposited 
on the article being plated. The two poles of the battery, with 
their attachments, should be placed opposite to each other in the 
solution, but not be brought into direct contact. In all other 
respects, the same rules should be observed in this as in sec. 1. 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 9 

Section 3. — To make Reddish-colored Gilding, of Twelve, Four- 
teen, Sixteen, or Eighteen-carat fine. 

Recipe — 2 qt. rain-water ; 1 oz. dragon's-blood ; 1 oz. cyanuret 
potassa; 5 gr. iodid of iron. Put the dragon's-blood and water 
together into a suitable vessel, and boil down to one quart; then 
strain it, and add the cyanuret potassa and iodid of iron. 

Directions for use. — Cleanse the article properly, and attach 
it to the positive pole of your battery, and to the negative pole 
attach a piece each of pure gold and copper, and immerse both 
together in the solution, as per sec. 2. The proportions of gold 
and copper used will determine, to some extent, both the quality 
and color of the gilding. A beautiful color may be given by this 
process, but is not adapted for heavy plating. It operates more 
satisfactorily, however, if the solution is used warm than when cold. 

Section 4.— To make Gold and Silver Powders, for light Gold and 
Silver plating — by rubbing process— on Brass, Copper, Oreid, 
German Silver, etc., and for renovating Gold and Silver Plate of 
all kinds. 

Recipe — Dissolve gold and silver in the same manner and in 
the same proportions as in sec. 1, and after washing out the acids 
as there directed, to 1 oz. of silver or 5 dwt. of gold, add 3 oz. 
cyanuret potassa and 1 pt. of clean rain-water. Let stand until 
the chlorid of gold or silver, as the case may be, is all dissolved; 
then mix the solution with 1 lb. clean Spanish whiting, and evapo- 
rate to dryness in the open air. When dry, reduce to a fine pow- 
der, and bottle for use. In making the gold powder, add a little 
yellow ocher, to give color, and to distinguish it from the silver. 

Directions for use. — For plating, dampen the powder with 
rain-water to the thickness of paste, and apply it with the finger, 
a rag, or a bit of cork ; and for renovating, wet in like manner to 
about the consistency of cream, and apply with wash leather or a 
soft brush. On frosted work, either gold or silver, imt with the 
brush, instead of rubbing in the ordinary way. 

After applying the powders as above, rinse clean in rain-water, 
and dry with a soft linen cloth or in fine sawdust. 

Section 5. — To Frost and Gild Watch Movements, etc.— Swiss 
Process by first coating with Silver. 

1. How TO Prepare the Silver. — Recipe — IJ dr. nitric 
acid; 2 dwt. pure silver; a little distilled or clean rain-water. 

When solution of the silver is efiected, add about 2 oz. clear 
rain-water, and immerse in it a piece of clean sheet copper. The 



10 watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 

silver will collect upon the copper, but may be readily scraped off. 
(See sec. 5, part 3.) When the silver in solution has been thus all 
precipitated to the bottom, collect it by straining through filtering 
paper, and dry without washing in the open air. When dry, 
scrape it carefully together from the paper, and bottle for use. 

2. How TO BE APPLIED. — Stone off properly the article to be 
frosted, and pin it to a piece of cork, to prevent chafing ; then mix 
together 1 part silver, prepared as above, with 6 parts fine table- 
salt, and sufiicient rain-water to form the whole into a thin paste, 
which apply to the article with a watch or plate-brush, giving to 
the brush a circular motion while applying. When in this way a 
sufficient quantity of silver has been made to adhere to the article, 
place it, still on the cork, in a shallow vessel, and barely cover it 
with strong or sour beer; and while in this position, take a fine 
scratch-brush (a brush made by binding together a bundle of very 
fine brass or steel wire) and scour it thoroughly, giving the same 
circular motion to this as to the plate-brush first used. Then 
wash off and rinse clean in alcohol, and it is ready for gilding. 

3. Directions for Gilding. — After frosting as above, attach 
to the article a strip of sheet zinc, and immerse it for a short time 
in the gold solution, (see sec. 1,) and then clean ofi" with a soft 
brush and cream tartar and rain-water, and dry in fine sawdust. 

Note. — A better color is generally produced by light rather 
than heavy gilding, and a solution alloyed with a very little plati- 
num, added to the gold while in course of preparation, will greatly 
increase the durability of the gilding. 

Various other modes or processes of frosting are employed by 
difierent parties, among which may be named the following : 

First. Immerse or sink the article by means of a bit of peg- 
wood for a short time in a mixture of nitric acid and fine table- 
salt, or about equal proportions of nitric and sulphuric acids and 
fine table-salt. 

Second. Sprinkle over the article a thick coating of pulverized 
charcoal, and then dampen it with nitric acid, or with nitric and 
sulphuric acids combined. 

Ihird (and simplest mode). Dip the article quickly several 
times in succession into the chain-dip solution, (see sec. 6,) 
holding it out each time barely long enough to allow the air to 
act upon it; then wash and rinse thoroughly, and dry in sawdust. 

In each of the foregoing modes of frosting, after removing 
from the acid, the article may be placed in strong beer, scoured 
with a scratch-brush, and gilded with gold, same as in the latter 
part of the Swiss process. 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 11 

Section 6. — Chain-Dip Solution, for Brass Chains, etc. 

Removes instantaneously all stains or discolorations, and gives 
to the article a perfectly bright and neio appearance. 

Recipe — 2|- oz. sulphuric acid; 2 oz. nitric acid; 2 oz. rain- 
water; 1 dr. saltpeter. 

Mix together in a glass bottle, and let stand for a few hours. 
Apply by dipping the article into the solution quickly, and then 
at once wash oif thoroughly, and rinse in clean rain-water and dry 
in sawdust; or, if conveoient, after washing in water, rinse in 
alcohol, or in a weak dilution of spirits of ammonia, and rain- 
water. 

Section 7.— To make Etruscan Gold Coloring, and to renew Tar- 
nished Etruscan Jewelry. 

Recipe — 1 oz. alum ; 1 oz. fine table-salt ; 2 oz. saltpeter, 
(powdered) ; hot rain-water, sufficient to make the solution, when 
all is dissolved, about the consistency of thick ale; then add suffi- 
cient muriatic acid to produce the color desired. No absolute rule 
can be given for the proportion of acid to be used in this process, as 
it requires in difi"erent cases to be varied according to circum- 
stances. Hence, the degree of success must always depend, to a 
greater or less extent, upon the judgment and skill of the operator. 
The article to be colored should be from fourteen to eighteen 
carats fine, and composed of pure gold and copper only, without 
admixture of other alloy, and be free from coatings of tin or silver 
solder. The solution acts more promptly and satisfiictorily when 
used warm than cold; and, in order to produce the best possible 
color, should be made fresh each time of using; but any desired 
number of articles may be colored at the same time. 

The principle on which this solution acts is to eat out the 
copper alloy from the surface of the article, leaving thereon pure, 
frosted gold only. 

After coloring, wash oif first in rain-water, then in alcohol, and 
dry, without rubbing, in fine, clean sawdust. Fine Etruscan 
jewelry, that has been defaced or tarnihsed by use, may be perfectly 
renewed by the same process. 

Section 8.— Pickle, for Frosting and Whitening Silver Goods. 

Recipe — 1 dr. sulphuric acid; 4 oz. water. Heat the pickle, 
and immerse the silver in it until frosted as desired; then wash 
off clean, and dry with a soft linen cloth, or in fine, clean sawdust. 
For whitening only, a smaller proportion of acid may be used. 



12 watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 

Section 9. — To remove Discolorations from Gold Rings, etc., 
tarnished by Heat. 

Use a pickle of water and sulphuric acid in the same way, but 
Bomewhat stronger, than for frosting silver; or for cheap gold 
use a strong solution of cyanuret potassa and rain-water. 

Section 10.— To remove Tarnish from Electro-plated Goods, 
without scratching o^r Injury to the Polish. 

Recipe — 2 gal. rain-water; ^ lb. cyanuret potassa. 

Dissolve and put into' a suitable covered vessel for use,, or, 
what is better, into a stone jug or jar, and closely cork. 

Directions for use. — Immerse the tarnished article in the 
solution from one to ten or fifteen minutes, or until the tarnish 
has been removed, and no longer; then wash and rinse it off 
thoroughly in two or three waters, and dry with a soft linen cloth, 
or if frosted or chased work, with fine, clean sawdust. This pro- 
cess of cleaning is very effective and satisfactory, if properly 
employed; but any neglect or carelessness in washing off and 
rinsing the article, after it is removed from the solution, may 
result in its permanent injury, as the strong alkali, if unremoved, 
will, when dry, corrode or eat into, and thus irretrievably mar, 
the surface. 

Tarnished jewelry may be speedily restored to its original color 
by similar process ; and a little of this solution mixed with SjDanish 
whiting will effectually remove stains or discolorations from almost 
any metallic surfice to which it is applied. 

In the arts, cyanuret potassa ranks among the most valuable 
chemicals known ; but, being a deadly poison, too great care can 
not be observed in its use, as even the smallest quantity, accident- 
ally taken into the stomach, might prove fatal. In its use it is 
also desirable to avoid as much as possible inhaling the od-^i* 
arising from it, which to persons with diseased or weak lu.sgs is 
also found to be injurious. 

Section II.— How to give to Silver a Bright Gold Tinge. 

This may be done by steeping it for a suitable length of time 
in a weak dilution of sulphuric acid and water, strongly impreg- 
nated with iron rust. The rust impregnation may be imparted by 
immersing nails or other pieces of iron in the diluted acid. 

Section 12. — To remove instantaneously Blueing or Coloring 
from Steel. 

Take equal parts of muriatic acid and elixir vitriol ; mix and apply 
with a bit of peg-wood, or whatever is most convenient, and wipe dry. 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 13 

SectSion 13. — To neutralize the effects of Acid, when the hands or 
clothes become accidentally exposed to it, and to restore the 
Color to garments where it is partially destroyed by Acid. 

Dampen the part or parts immediately, or as soon after the 
accident as possible, with spirits ammonia. This, if the fabric is 
not already actually destroyed, will almost instantaneously produce 
the desired result. This fact, though known to all chemists, may 
not be known to many into whose hands this work may fall, and 
who have occasion to use acids ; hence its insertion in this place. 

Section 14. — To make Lacquers for Brass and Copper. 

Eecipe — 2 oz. alcohol; J oz. shell-lac. 

Dissolve and strain through filtering paper, and while filtering 
keep covered to prevent evaporation. It may now be used as a 
transparent lacquer or varnish to protect polished brass, copper, 
etc., from tarnish, or may be colored at pleasure, as follows : for 
yellow use gamboge; for orange to crimson^ use dragons-blood; and 
for bright red^ for watch hands, etc., use red sanders; or any other 
desired color (soluble in alcohol) may be used. First dissolve 
the colors in alcohol, and, when settled, mix sufficient with the 
lacquer to produce the color desired. 

Directions for use. — Clean the article from all stains and dirt, 
and in cold weather warm it slightly; then apply the lacquer, 
quickly and evenly, with a camel's-hair brush, taking care not to 
go over any part a second time until the first is fully dry. The 
number of coatings will, to some extent, determine both the color 
and shade. To remove lacquer, wash in alcohol. 

Section 15.— To make Red Watch Hands. 

First Recipe — 1 oz. carmine; 1 oz. muriate of silver; J- oz. 
tinner's japan. 

Mix together in an earthen vessel, and hold over a spirit lamp 
until formed into a paste. Apply this to the watch hand, and 
then lay it on a copper plate, face side up, and heat the plate suf- 
ficiently to produce the color desired. 

Second Recipe — 25 gr. gum sandric; 10 gr. red sanders; J oz. 
best sulphuric ether. 

Dissolve and shake well together. To be applied by dipping 
the hand quickly two or three times into the solution, allowing it 
each time to dry thoroughly. This process gives to composition 
and gold hands a beautiful red, and to steel or iron a bright ^icrple 



14 watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 

color; the only drawback to it being that, if not skillfully applied, 
the color is liable to run into streaks. 

Third Recipe — (See sec. 7), "Lacquers for Brass and Copper." 
This lacquer, colored with red sanders, gives a very fine red color, 
and may be applied with ease, and a certainty of success. 

Section 16.— To make Liquid Bronzes for Plaster Figures, etc. 

Recipe — 5 oz. palm soap; IJ oz. sulphate of copper; IJ- oz. 
sulphate of iron; linseed oil, or oil of turpentine, as much as 
required. 

Dissolve the soap in rain-water in one vessel, and the sulphates 
of iron and copper in another vessel, and when dissolved mix the 
solution of sulphates with the soap solution until no further pre- 
cipitate occurs ; then dry the precipitate, and mix it with the linseed 
oil, or oil of turpentine, which ever is preferred. The sulphate 
of copper alone with the palm soap gives a bright green, and the 
sulphate of iron a yellow color. If preferred, these preparations 
may be made separately, and then mixed to taste. 

Section 17.— How to make Polishing Powders and to free them 
from Gritty Matter. 

Freeing from gritty matter may be accomplished by simply 
washing the powder in clean rain-icater in the following manner : 

Mix the powder with a plentiful supply of clean rain-water; stir 
it up well, and let it subside barely long enough to allow the gritty 
matter to settle to the bottom, and then pour off the top carefully 
into another vessel. Let this settle fully; then drain and evapo- 
rate to dryness. "When dry, reduce to a fine powder, and put into 
a close-covered vessel for use. A second or third washing before 
drying may be resorted to if an extra fine powder is desired. 

Spanish whiting and ground chalk both make excellent polish- 
ing powders when prepared in this way; to either of which the 
addition of a little jeweler's rouge is a decided improvement. The 
rouge may be mixed with the whiting or chalk at the outset, and 
all washed together. A very excellent polishing powder for brass 
and copper, to be used dry, may be made by simply washing finely 
ground brick-dust as above. This constitutes the powder sold 
very extensively not long since, under slight disguise, as "Magic 
Polishing Powder" 

What is known as French Plate Powder is made by mixing 
one part of fine jeweler's rouge with twelve parts of carbonate 
of magnesia. 



WATCHMAKER S AND JEWELER S HAND-BOOK. 



15 



PART SECOND. 

DEVOTED SPECIALLY TO PROCESSES, EMPLOYED IN WATCH EEPAIRING. 

Section I.— List of Trains of Watches. 

SHOWINU THE NUMBER OF TEETH IN THE WHEELS, LEAVES IN THE PINIONS, BEATS 
IN A MINUTE, AND TIME THE FOURTH WHEEL REVOLVES IN. 



Trains, for SeTen Teetli in the Escapement Wheel. 



•zj 


H 


c-i 


H 


t-i 


H 


c-i 


!z! 


tz; 


9^ 
Is, 


? 


o " 


1 


2^ 

o' ^' 






Is, 


^o 




P 


P -. 




B ^,. 


^^^ 


5d 


»w 


S-g^ 












B" rt- 






fO 






(3- 






: ^ 




o P" 




1 

5' 


5* * 


if 








: 1. 


;l 


H 




i 


B ^ 

: B- 


72 


66 


6 


58 


6 




6 


298— 


27 


66 


64 


6 


64 


6 




6 


292 + 


31 


66 


64 


6 


63 


6 




6 


287+ 


31 


66 


63- 


6 


63 


6 




6 


283— 


31 


66 


63 


6 


62 


6 




6 


278+ 


31 


66 


63 


6 


61 


6 




6 


274— 


31 


66 


63 


6 


60 


6 




6 


269+ 


31 



Trains, for Nine Teeth in the Escapement Wheel. 



63 


60 


6 


57 


6 


9 


6 


299+ 


34 


66 


60 


6 


54 


6 


9 


6 


297 


33 


63 


60 


6 


56 


6 


9 


6 


294 


34 


66 


60 


6 


53 


6 


9 


6 


291 + 


33 


63 


60 


6 


55 


6 


9 


6 


289— 


34 


66 


60 


6 


52 


6 


9 


6 


286 


33 


63 


60 


6 


54 


6 


9 


6 


283+ 


34 


66 


60 


6 


51 


6 


9 


6 


280+ 


33 


63 


60 


6 


53 


6 


9 


6 


278 + 


34 


66 


60 


6 


50 


6 


9 


6 


275 


33 


63 


60 


6 


52 


6 


9 


6 


273 


34 



Trains, for Eleven Teeth in the Escapement W heel. 


60 


60 


6 


49 


6 




6 


300— 1 36 


60 


54 


6 


54 


6 




6 


297 


40 


60 


56 


6 


52 


6 




6 


230— 


30 


64 


52 


6 


52 


6 




6 


294— 


30 


58 


56 


6 


53 


6 




6 


292 + 


40 



16 



WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS HAND-BOOK. 



1 

• ? 


1 

1 


: ^ 




=1 

• ^ 


\ 1 


4 




1 
5* 

o 
ta 

C6 


i 

S8 
ll 

i ? 


60 


54 


6 


53 


6 


11 


6 


291 + 


40 


62 


54 


6 


51 


6 


11 


6 


290— 


39 


58 


54 


6 


54 


6 


11 


6 


287+ 


41 


58 


55 


6 


53 


6 


11 


6 


287 


41 


59 


54 


6 


53 


6 


11 


6 


286+ 


41 


60 


54 


6 


52 


6 


11 


6 


286 


40 


60 


55 


6 


51 


6 


11 


6 


286— 


39 


61 


55 


6 


50 


6 


11 


6 


285— 


39 


63 


55 


6 


48 


6 


11 


6 


282 + 


38 


59 


54 


6 


52 


6 


11 


6 


281 + 


41 


60 


54 


6 


51 


6 


11 


6 


281 + 


40 


61 


54 


6 


50 


6 


11 


6 


280— 


39 


56 


54 


6 


54 


6 


11 


6 


277+ 


43 


60 


60 


6 


48 


6 


11 


6 


293+ 


36 


62 


54 


6 


52 


6 


11 


6 


295 + 


39 


63 


54 


6 


50 


6 


11 


6 


289— 


38 


63 


48 


6 


56 


6 


11 


6 


287+ 


43 


10 


70 


7 


56 


7 


11 


7 


293 + 


36 


10 


70 


7 


48 


7 


11 


6 


293 + 


36 


70 


60 


7 


48 


6 


11 


6 


293 + 


36 


60 


70 


6 


48 


7 


11 


6 


293+ 


36 


63 


50 


6 


56 


7 


11 


6 


287+ 


40 


63 


63 


6 


50 


7 


11 


6 


289— 


38 


80 


80 


8 


64 


8 


11 


8 


293+ 


36 


80 


80 


8 


56 


8 


11 


7 


293+ 


36 


80 


80 


8 


48 


8 


11 


6 


293+ 


36 


80 


70 


8 


56 


7 


11 


7 


293+ 


36 


80 


70 


8 


48 


7 


11 


6 


293+ 


36 


80 


60 


8 


48 


6 


11 


6 


293+ 


36 


70 


80 


7 


56 


8 


11 


7 


293 + 


36 


70 


80 


7 


48 


8 


11 


6 


293 + 


36 


60 


80 


6 


48 


8 


11 


6 


293+ 


36 


84 


72 


8 


50 


8 


11 


6 


289— 


38 


84 


63 


8 


50 


7 


11 


6 


289— 


38 


84 


54 


8 


50 


6 


11 


6 


289— 


38 


63 


72 


6 


50 


8 


11 


6 


289— 


38 


63 


63 


6 


50 


7 


11 


6 


289— 


38 


84 


64 


8 


56 


8 


11 


6 


287+ 


40 


84 


56 


8 


56 


7 


11 


6 


287+ 


40 


84 


48 


8 


56 


6 


11 


6 


287+ 


40 


63 


64 


6 


56 


8 


11 


6 


287+ 


40 


63 


56 


6 


56 


7 


11 


6 


287+ 


40 



watchmaker's and jeweler's han-dbook. 17 



Trains, for TSiirteesi Teelli in tike Escapemesat W 



heel. 





1 


2? 

r 


i 




it 

1^ 






A 


a? 


1 


p' 


d' 


M. 


5= 


^3 


P« 


n 


: 5' 




^ 
^ 


? 

^ 


1^ 


: f 


tLcD 


! 1 

: 5' 


ii 








s 


ij" 




Pf 


; i 


: S* 


54 


53 


6 


52 


6 


13 


6 


298+ 


45 


56 


53 


6 


50 


6 


13 


6 


298— 


44 


59 


51 


6 


49 


6 


13 


6 


296— 


43 


60 


51 


6 


48 


6 


13 


6 


294-f 


42 


54 


53 


6 


51 


6 


13 


6 


293— 


45 


56 


53 


6 


49 


6 


13 


6 


292— 


44 


56 


54 


6 


48 


6 


13 


6 


291-]- 


44 


57 


53 


6 


48 


6 


13 


6 


291— 


43 


54 


52 


6 


51 


6 


13 


6 


287-f 


46 


54 


43 


6 


50 


6 


13 


6 


287+ 


45 


50 


51 


6 


50 


6 


13 


6 


286 + 


45 


54 


52 


6 


50 


6 


13 


6 


282— 


46 


56 


51 


6 


49 


6 


13 


6 


281— 


45 


57 


51 


6 


48 


6 


13 


6 


280— 


44 


52 


52 


6 


51 


6 


13 


6 


277— 


48 


53 


52 


6 


50 


6 


13 


6 


276+ 


46 


52 


52 


6 


52 


6 


13 


6 


293— 


46 


55 


51 


6 


51 


6 


13 


6 


287 


46 


56 


50 


6 


51 


6 


13 


6 


286 + 


46 


56 


52 


6 


4S 


6 


13 


6 


280 + 


44 


56 


52 


6 


50 


6 


13 


6 


292 + 


44 


60 


48 


6 


48 


6 


13 


6 


277+ 


45 


60 


50 


6 


48 


6 


13 


6 


289— 


43 


60 


54 


6 


60 


8 


13 


6 


292 + 


53 


60 


58 


'7 


56 


7 


13 


6 


287+ 


51 


60 


60 


8 


54 


6 


13 


6 


300 


44 


62 


56 


7 


56 


7 


13 


6 


296 + 

285 


47 


63 


52 


7 


51 


6 


13 


6 


60 


63 


60 


7 


60 


7 


13 


6 


290 


60 


64 


60 


7 


60 


7 


13 


6 


285 


60 


72 


70 


8 


68 


8 


13 


6 


280 


GO 


74 


68 


8 


68 


8 


13 


6 


286 + 


60 


Tra 


Ins, ftiv I 


nru 


sen Tcel' 


s ir 


I the Escas^e 


ment Wheel. 


54 


50 


6 


48 


6 


15 


6 


286 48 


58 


48 


6 


46 


6 


15 


6 


290 


50 


48 


45 


6 


59 


6 


15 


6 


291— 


GO 


48 


45 


6 


53 


6 


15 


6 


300 


62 


48 


45 


S 


57 


6 


15 


6 


288 


G2 


48 


45 


3 


56 


6 


15 


6 


288 


50 



18 



WATCHMAKERS AND JEVv^ELER S HAND-BOOK. 



►zj 


H 


^ 


H 


f 


H 


r^ 


^ 


^ 


9? 
|2. 


1 

5 


-0 


1 








5 o 


f5 m 


• ^H 


ZjD 


3 ^_ 




= 5- 


5= 


^= 


f w 


!3 2 




p2 
1 


: g 


r 




11 


2^ 




S' 


P 






: £- 


£< 


cr 


• so 

: 7 


^•3 
?7 




O 

B 




56 


48 


6 


46 


6 


15 


6 


289— 


50 


63 


56 


7 


56 


7 


15 


7 


288 


50 


60 


56 


8 


58 


7 


15 


6 


288 


50 


62 


60 


8 


60 


8 


15 


6 


288 


50 


. 72 


64 


8 


50 


8 


15 


6 


288 


50 


72 


64 


8 


56 


8 


15 


7 


288 


50 


72 


64 


8 


64 


8 


15 


8 


288 


50 


52 


50 


6 


48 


6 


15 


6 


288 


50 


54 


48 


6 


48 


6 


15 


6 


288 


50 


72 


64 


8 


48 


8 


16 


6 


288 


50 


72 


■ 80 


8 


64 


10 


15 


8 


288 


50 


72 


80 


8 


56 


10 


15 


7 


288 


50 


72 


80 


8 


48 


10 


15 


6 


288 


50 


63 


80 


7 


64 


10 


15 


8 


288 


50 


63 


80 


7 


56 


10 


15 


7 


288 


50 


63 


80 


7 


48 


10 


15 


6 


288 


50 



Trains, for Seventeen Teetli in the Escapement Wheel. 



64 


80 


8 


48 


10 


17 


6 


299+ 


53 


54 


48 


6 


44 


6 


17 


6 


299-1- 


50 


. 51 


48 


6 


45 


6 


17 


6 


295 + 


53 


54 


48 


6 


43 


6 


17 


6 


292 + 


50 


48 


48 


6 


48 


6 


17 


6 


290 + 


53 


51 


48 


6 


45 


6 


17 


6 


289 


53 


54 


48 


6 


42 


6 


17 


6 


286— 


53 


48 


48 


6 


47 


6 


17 


6 


284+ 


53 


51 


48 


6 


44 


6 


17 


6 


283— 


53 


48 


48 


6 


46 


6 


17 


6 


278 


53 


48 


48 


6 


45 


6 


17 


6 


272 


53 


64 


64 


8 


64 


8 


17 


8 


290 + 


50 


72 


04 


8 


56 


8 


17 


8 


286— 


50 


64 


64 


8 


60 


8 


17 


8 


289— 


53 


56 


56 


7 


56 


7 


17 


7 


290 + 


53 


63 


56 


7 


49 


7 


17 


7 


286— 


50 


64 


56 


8 


48 


7 


17 


6 


290 + 


53 


80 


80 


10 


64 


10 


17 


8 


290 + 


53 


80 


64 


10 


64 


8 


17 


8 


290+ 


53 


80 


04 


10 


56 


8 


17 


7 


290 + 


53 


80 


04 


10 


48 


8 


17 


6 


290 + 


53 


80 


56 


10 


56 


7 


17 


7 


290+ 


53 


80 


50 


10 


48 


7 


17 


6 


290 + 


53 


64 


80 


8 


64 


10 


17 


8 


290 + 


53 


64 


80 


8 


56 


10 


17 


7 


290 + 


53 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 



19 



Trains, for Third Wheel and Patent Seconds. 



9? 

P O 


1 

5" 


a 

o 

B — 


5' 


n 

: 1^ 


g tr 
If 


a. P' 


!2i 


£L CO 

si 

< 3 


'- p' 


i 


^ 




'■ ^ 


: S 


2^ 

P'o 


• p' 


i? 


• ^ 


': 


r 




; c 


• "S 


i"! 


: o 

• p 


P^ 










• — 










60 


72 


6 


60 


12 




6 


300 


60 


60 


60 


6 


60 


10 


... 


6 


300 


60 


60 


48 


6 


60 


8 




6 


300 


60 


48 


60 


6 


60 


8 




6 


300 


60 


60 


72 


6 


54 


12 


... 


6 


270 


60 


60 


60 


6 


54 


10 


... 


6 


270 


60 


48 


60 


6 


54 


8 




6 


270 


60 


60 


72 


6 


48 


12 


... 


6 


240 


60 


60 


60 


6 


48 


10 




6 


240 


60 


48 


60 


6 


48 


8 




6 


240 


60 



Trains, for Fourth ^'heel Seconds, wi<h Eleven Teeth in 
the Escapement Wheel. 



48 
48 
48 
48 
60 
60 
60 
45 
45 
45 
64 
64 
64 
60 
60 
60 
60 
48 
48 
48 
56 



45 


6 


71 


6 


45 


6 


74 


6 


45 


6 


76 


6 


45 


6 


78 


6 


49 


7 


74 




49 


7 


76 




49 


7 


78 




56 


6 


74 




56 


6 


76 




56 


6 


78 


7 


60 


8 


74 


8 


60 


8 


76 


8 


60 


8 


78 


8 


56 


8 


74 


7 


56 


8 


76 


7 


56 


8 


78 


7 


48 


8 


74 


6 


48 


8 


78 


6 


60 


6 


74 


8 


60 


6 


78 


8 


60 


7 


74 


8 



11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
11 
]1 



260+ 

271-i- 

279— 

286 

271 + 

279— 

286 

271 + 

279— 

286 

271 + 

279— 

286 

271 + 

279— 

286 

271 + 

286 

271 + 

286 

271 + 



60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 



20 



WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS HAND-BOOK. 



Trains, for FourtSi "Wheel Seeoisils. wills Tlairteen Teeth in tlie 
l]scai>einent Wiaeel. 



^ 


;^ 


c* 


H 


r" 


I:;? 


t^ 


i?; 


iz; 


9^ 


1 
5' 

CO 


p. 


5' 




^2' 


if 

^3 


is, 




< ri 


p. 








f^ 


cr ^ 


■2 o 






• to 










: i" 


<! CO 


: 5' 


£. 


: ^ 


s 


: ^. 


• o 


o 


: p' 


-f 


• p* 




• cr 




; tJ" 


•• 1 


a '% 


. o 




• ® 




: £. 




• H- 


1 


' ' 


• CB 


• ts" 


64 


60 


8 


66 


8 


13 


6 


286 


60 


64 


60 


8 


67 


8 


13 


6 


290 + 


60 


64 


60 


8 


68 


8 


, 13 


6 


295— 


60 


64 


60 


8 


69 


8 


13 


6 


299 


60 


60 


49 


. 7 


77 


7 


13 


7 


286 


60 


60 


49 


7 


66 


7 


12 


6 


286 


60 


60 


49 


7 


67 


7 


13 


6 


290+ 


60 


48 


45 


6 


66 


6 


13 


6 


286 


60 


48 


45 


6 


67 


6 


13 


6 


290 + 


60 


48 


45 


6 


68 


6 


13 


6 


264— 


60 


48 


45 


6 


69 


6 


13 


6 


299 


60 


60 


56 


8 


66 


7 


13 


6 


286 


60 


80 


60 


10 


66 


8 


13 


6 


286 


60 


64 


75 


8 


66 


10 


13 


6 


286 


60 


48 


60 


6 


66 


8 


13 


6 


286 


60 


48 


75 


6 


66 


10 


13 


6 


286 


60 


45 


56 


6 


66 


7 


13 


6 


286 


60 


56 


75 


7 


68 


10 


13 


6 


285 — 


60 



Trains, fer l^oartla Wiaeel Seconds, -w'itli Fifteen Teeth in 
Esca5>enient Wheel. 



64 


60 


8 


70 


8 


15 


7 


300 


60 


64 


60 


8 


60 


8 


15 


6 


300 


60 


64 


45 


8 


60 


6 


15 


6 


300 


60 


60 


56 


8 


60 


7 


15 


6 


300 


60 


48 


60 


6 


60 


8 


15 


6 


300 


60 


60 


70 


7 


70 


7 


15 


7 


300 


60 


60 


49 


7 


60 


7 


15 


6 


300 


60 


48 


49 


6 


60 


6 


15 


6 


300 


60 


80 


45 


10 


70 


8 


15 


7 


300 


60 


75 


60 


10 


60 


8 


15 


6 


300 


60 


64 


64 


8 


70 


10 


15 


7 


300 


60 


64 


75 


8 


60 


10 


15 


6 


300 


60 


56 


75 


7 


70 


10 


15 


7 


300 


60 


56 


75 


7 


60 


10 


15 


6 


300 


60 


64 


75 


8 


54 


8 


15 


6 


270 


60 


60 


60 


8 


54 


7 


15 


6 


270 


60 


64 


56 


8 


54 


6 


15 


6 


270 


60 


48 


45 


6 


54 


8 


15 


6 


270 


60 


60 


GO 


7 


63 


7 


15 


7 


270 


GO 



WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS HAND-BOOK. 



21 



!25 


H 


t-i 


^ 


c-i 


H 


t-i 


!2! 


fe! 


f; 


g 

9 






If 


B 1 


n 


PO 




^2, 



^ 


p 




5 ** 

"5- 


CI- ^ 


^5- 




^S* 




P 




pf 


^ 


a- 








S 


II 


• P 


s 


:d 


s 


^ 


: S 


p'o 






CO p- 


': i 








1 


: ? 


n 




1 


5 ^ 

: P- 


60 


49 


7 


54 


7 


15 


6 


270 


60 


48 


49 


6 


54 


6 


15 


6 


270 


60 


64 


45 


8 


48 


8 


15 


6 


240 


60 


60 


60 


8 


48 


7 


15 


6 


240 


60 


48 


50 


6 


48 


8 


15 


6 


240 


60 


64 


CO 


8 


48 


6 


15 


6 


240 


60 


60 


45 


7 


56 


7 


15 


7 


240 


69 


60 


49 


7 


48 


7 


15 


6 


240 


60 


48 


45 


6 


48 


6 


15 


6 


240 


60 


60 


56 


8 


48 


7 


15 


6 


240 


60 



Trains, for Fourth Wheel Seconds, \*'ith Seventeen Teeth 
in Escapement Wheel. 



64 


60 


8 


51 


8 




6 


289 


60 


64 


60 


8 


50 


8 




6 


283 + 


50 


60 


56 


8 


51 


7 




6 


289 


60 


80 


60 


10 


50 


8 




6 


283-f 


60 


75 


64 


10 


50 


8 




6 


283+ 


60 


75 


56 


10 


68 


7 




8 


289 


60 . 


75 


68 


10 


68 


8 




8 


289 


60 


80 


75 


10 


68 


10 




8 


289 


60 



Train of the American Watch Company's W^atch. 



64 I 60 I 



64 I 8 I 15 I 7 I 



300 



60 



Note. — By use of the foregoing set of Trains, and the rule 
for sizes of pinions, in sec. 2, all difficulty of calculating is obvi- 
ated ; and at one view, in case of the accidental loss of a wheel 
and pinion, may be known the correct size and count of the pinion, 
and number of teeth in tiie wheel lost. 



22 watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 



Section 2. — Rule for determining the correct Diameter of a Pinion 
by Measuring Teeth of the Wheel that matches into it. 

The term full, as used below, indicates full measure, from out- 
side to outside of the teeth named; and the term center, the 
measure from center of one tooth to center of the other tooth 
named, inclusive: 

For diameter of a pinion of 15 leaves measure, witli calipers, a shade 
less than 6 teeth of the wheel, full. 

For diameter of a pinion of 14 leaves measure, with calipers, a shade 
less than 6 teeth of the wheel, center. 

For diameter of a pinion of 12 leaves measure, with calipers, 5 teeth of 
the wheel, center. 

For diameter of a pinion of 10 leaves measure, with calipers, 4 teeth 
of the wheel, fall. 

For diameter of a pinion of 9 leaves measure, with calipers, a little less 
than 4 teteh of the "wheel, full. 

For diameter of a pinion of 8 leaves measure, with calipers, a little less 
than 4 teeth of the wheel, center. 

For diameter of a pinion of 7 leaves measure, with calipers, a little less 
than 3 teeth of the wheel, /wZZ. 

For diameter of a pinion of 6 leaves measure, with calipers, a little over 
3 teeth of the wheel, center. 

For diameter of a pinion of 5 leaves measure, with calipers, 3 teeth 
of the wheel, center. 

For diameter of a pinion of 4 leaves measure, with calipers, one half of 
one space over 2 teeth of the wheel, /mZZ. 

As a general rule, pinions that lead, as in the hour wheel, should 
be somewhat larger than those that drive ; and pinions of clocks 
should generally be somewhat larger proportionately than those 
of watches. 

Section 3. — How to make Diamond Mills, Broaches, and Files, for 
Grinding Jewels, Enlarging Jewel Holes, Polishing Jeweled 
Pallets, etc. 

For these purposes diamond dust is required. It may be bought 
in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and occasionally in other 
places, ready prepared; or any one may prepare it for himself by 
crushing to dust a few small pieces of common or cheap diamond. 
This, with ordinary care, may be done, with very little or no loss 
of particles, in the following manner: place the diamond on a 
block of hard polished steel, in a suitable vessel, and cover it with 
water to prevent flying or scattering; then place a flat steel punch 
on each piece separately, and strike the punch with a mallet or 
hammer, with sufficient force to crush the diamond. When re- 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book 23 

duced sufficiently fine in this way, the dust may be carefully col- 
lected and dried for use; after drying, it maybe graduated for 
different purposes by mixing it with a little watch oil; when 
agitated, the finest particles will float near the surface, while the 
coarsest pieces will sink at once to the bottom; and thus, by de- 
canting the oil in which the dust floats, as many grades of fine- 
ness as desired may be readily obtained. 

If desired, the dust may now be separated from the oil by 
pouring each grade separately on to a piece of clean, smooth paper; 
the paper will absorb the oil, or allow it to filter through, while 
the diamond will remain on the surface. But as this process 
necessarily involves more or less waste of the dust, it is generally 
better to leave it in the oil, and use it directly therefrom, as occasion 
requires; or the oil may be washed out of the dust with alcohol. 

For a Diamond Mill. — Make a brass chuck or wheel, suitable for 
use on a foot-lathe, with a flat, even surface or face of about one and 
a half or two inches in diameter; then place a number of the 
coarsest pieces of your diamond dust on different parts of its face, 
and with a smooth-faced steel hammer drive the pieces of dust 
all evenly into the brass to nearly or quite level with the surfiice. 
Your mill thus prepared may now be used for making pallet 
jewels, or for grinding stone or glass of whatever kind desired. 
For polishing, use a bone or boxwood chuck or wheel, of similar 
form to your mill, and coat it lightly with the finest grade of your 
diamond dust and oil ; with this a beautiful polish may be given 
to even the very hardest stone. 

For Diamond Broaches. — Prepare a number of brass pins, of 
the size and form you desire ; then stir the point of each separately 
into a medium grade of your diamond dust and oil until it becomes 
evenly covered; then place it on a smooth steel stake or anvil, 
and with a light hammer go carefully over the entire surface, 
driving the dust into the brass. A few minutes of light, even 
hammering in this way, taking care not to strike so hard as to 
dent or flatten the pin, will completely charge it with the diamond 
dust, which will be found to adhere with very great tenacity. 
Or, if preferred, the dust may be pressed into the pin by rolling 
it between two flat pieces of steel, instead of hammering as above. 
If dry diamond dust is used, first dampen the pin with oil, then 
dip or stir it into the dust until a sufficient ciuantity has adhered, 
and hammer or roll it as previously directed. 

In using the broaches press but lightly into the jewel hole, and 
turn the broach rapidly with the fingers. For polishing, use a bone 
or ivory point, lightly coated with the finest diamond dust and 



24 watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 

oil, and while using it with the one hand, accompany the motion 
with a slight oscillating motion of the other hand in which the 
jewel is held. This will insure a more even polish to the hole, 
with less liability to press the jewel out of its place in the plate, 
than if held firm and steady. 

For Diamond File. — Charge the flat side of a piece of brass or 
soft iron, of suitable size and shape, with diamond dust, the same 
as in the case of broaches. 

Section 4. — Very Simple and Valuable Process for making Pivot 
Fiies and Burnishers, of any desired Shape. 

By this means the finest conical pivots may be made with the 
same facility us ordinary square pivots, and a more perfect finish 
be given to square pivots than can possibly be given by any other 
process. 

For this purpose a smooth pivot-burnisher or a worn-out pivot- 
file may be used. First grind off the original teeth, and make the 
face perfectly level ; then round slightly or bevel one of the corners 
the entire length of the file, so that when finished it will make 
the exact form of pivot you desire. When thus prepared, draw 
the face of the steel three or four times, at right angles, across a 
piece of No. 1 emery paper — which for the purpose has been 
previously glued on to a level block of wood — extending the cut 
of the emery each time over the beveled or rounded corner of the 
steel. A few draws across the emery in this way will cut into the 
steel an immense number of little grooves, and will leave on its 
surface a corresponding number of very fine sharp teeth, which, 
though shallow, will be found to act upon a pivot with surprising 
rapidity; and as these teeth extend alike over the rounded corner 
of the file, or the part intended to form the shoulder of the pivot, 
it follows that in its use all parts of the pivot will be equally 
acted upon by it at the same time. If preferred, a smooth copper 
plate, with dry No, 1 emery powder sprinkled over it, may be used 
instead of the emery paper, as above. 

The reverse side of the file, for burnishing, should be made, in 
form, an exact counterpart of the file, and should be prepared 
with very fine emery paper, or with fine flour of emery, on a 
copper plate, instead of the No. 1 povrder used in making the file. 
For burnishing square pivots, make the corner of your burnisher 
exactly square, and then finish both its fiice and edge on fine 
emery paper, or on flour of emery. When properly prepared, a 
burnisher thus made will finish the pivot and shouHer both per- 
fectly down into the very corner. 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 



25 



In making conical pivots, first turn down with a graver, in the 
usual way, to about half the size you desire to make your pivot; 
then place it in a collar lathe, with about one half the length of 
the pivot resting on the collar, and apply your conical file. While 
restinc. on the collar, any desired amount of pressure may be put 
on the file without the slightest danger of breaking the pivot^ 

Ordinary flat burnishing files may be made, and those that have 
become damaged by use may be renewed by the foregoing process, 
and again made as perfect as when they came originally irom the 
factory. 

Section 5.-Greatly Improved Modes of Tempering Case and 
other Springs of Watches. 

First Jfoc?6.— Draw the temper from the spring and fit it 
properly in its place in the wat<)h; then take it out and temper it 
hard n rain-water (the addition of a little table-salt to the water 
tni be an improveLnt); after which place itm a smal sheet-iron 
ladle or cup, and barely cover it with inseed ^^^ ' /^f", ^^^^^^^^^^ 
ladle over a lighted lamp until the oil ignites Let it burn unt 
he oil is neaHy, not quite, all consumed; then re-cover with oil 
Ind burn down as before, and so a third time, at the end of which 
plunge it again into water. Main and hair-springs may in like 
Cnner, beimpered by the same process. First draw the em^ 
per, and properly coil and clamp to keep m position, and then 
proceed the same as with case-springs. . . ,^ :.« ^i.^p 

^ Second Mode.^Dr.^ the temper fit the «P"«S ^;;^;^^^P^^;^^^ 
and temper hard the same as in first process; then polish the 
:mal end so as to show the change of color wl-n h-^^^^^ 
on a piece of copper plate, and hold the plate over a lighted lamp 
r ffie flamfma^trike directly ^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
the sprino-. When the plate becomes sufficiently heatea to d ue 

and t^t can be^•eUed upon with the utmost confidence. 

section 6.-H0W to Blue '.•l^*;/„,S;-- "' ' *"*"" *°«^""""' 

Make a small brass or copper cnp or barrel sjilar^ a ma^- 
spring barrel, but somewhat larger m d.ameter, and ot bar.ly su 



26 watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 

cient depth to allow the screws to rest upon the head or cover, points 
downward, without touchina- the bottom. Then solder on to one 
side a handle five or six inches long, by which to hold it, and fit 
the cover so suugiy to it that it will touch evenly all around, or 
otnerwise solder it around the edge carefully with brass or silver 
«o]der. Then drill through the cover a number of holes corre- 
sponding to the number of screws you desire to blue; and, placing 
a screw in each hole, with the point downward, and the head 
resting on tiie plate or cover, hold the cup over the flame of your 
lamp, with the flame striking as near the center of the bottom as 
may be, until the cup becomes sufficiently heated to blue the 
screws to the shade desired. 

Section 7.— How to draw the Temper from Cylinders, Staffs, 
Pinions, etc., and to retemper them perfectly without changing 
the Color, or causing them in any degree to Warp or Spring. 

Make a hollow iron or steel cylinder, of about the diameter of 
a common clock key, leaving the one end closed; then put the 
article that you desire to temper, or from which the temper is to 
be drawn, into the cylinder, together with sufficient brass filings to 
fill up the entire cavity; then plug up or stop the open end so as 
perfectly to exclude the external air. This done, if the temper is 
to be drawn merely, heat the cylinder, and let it cool gradually 
before removing the plug; or if it is to be tempered, heat to the 
desired degree, and then plunge the cylinder with its contents into 
water. The temper may now be graduated at pleasure by re- 
moving the color from a part of the cylinder, and then heating; it 
again until blued ; and so any desired number of times. On taking 
out the plug and removing the article from the cylinder, it will be 
found, in appearance, in precisely the same condition as when it 
was put in. 

The principle consists simply in excluding the external air from 
the article while undergoing the changes from heat to cold. 

Section 8. — To draw the Temper from any desired part^of small 
Steel articles, without afTecting the other parts/ 

Drill a hole through a narrow strip of brass, and slip it on the 
article, or grasp the part where you desire to draw the temper 
with a pair of common tweezers, and then direct the flame, with 
your blow-pipe, on to the brass or the tweezers, instead of the 
article itself; or, in case of a flat surface, press the end of a brass 
wire, of suitable size, against the spot where the temper is to be 
drawn, and then heat the wire as above. 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 27 

When it is desired to protect perfectly the parts immediately 
surrounding that where the temper is to be drawn, coat them 
thickly with dampened plaster of paris; then proceed in other 
respects as before directed. In all ordin^1ry cases, however, this 
latter precaution will be found wholly unnecessary. 

Section 9.— To Make and Temper Drills, Gravers, etc. 

Always use the best quality of steel, and, heating each time to 
a cherry red, hammer it well two or three times ; with the view, 
in addition to giving it proper form, to compact the steel, and to 
lay the grain, nearly as possible, in some particular direction. In 
making drills especially, after once flattening, never turn and 
hammer it on the e:lge, otherwise the grain of the steel becomes 
crossed and rendered liable to crumble when hardened. 

For tempering, use resin, beeswax, or quicksilver; or in some 
cases a solution of cyanuret potassa and rain-water may answer a 
better purpose than any of the other articles named. ^ 

For sharpening, first use oil-stone, and then finish oft' with 
Scotch graystone, which will be found to give a smoother iiud 
finer edge thm can be given by any other me:ms. 

Section 10.— How to Drill into Hard Steel without drawing the 

Temper. 

But few instances arise in which it is desirable to nttempt to 
drill into steel so hard that it can not be acted upon with a file; 
and in all cases of very hard steel, when the temper can be slightly 
drawn without injury to the article, it is better to do so. When 
this can not be done, however, the following, for drilling with a 
a steel drill, is probably the best process known. 

Make your drill oval in form, instead of the usual pointed shape, 
and temper, as per sec. 9, as hard as it will bear without breaking. 
Then roughen the surface where you desire to drill with a little 
diluted muriatic acid, and instead of oil use turpentine or kero- 
sene (the kerosene for this purpose may be improved by dis- 
solving in it a little gum camphor) with your drill. In operating, 
keep the pressure on your drill firm and steady; and if the bottom 
of the hole should chance to become burnished so that the drill 
will not act, as sometimes happens, again roughen with diluted 
acid, as at the first; then clean out the hole carefully, and proceed 
as before. 

A little patient perseverance in this way will overcome all diffi- 
culties, and enable you to drill into the hardest staff or pinion with 
entire success. 



28 watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 

Section 11.— How to Polish steel. 

For this purpose there is a white French polishing powder, sold 
in New York and some other places, the ingredients of Vhich 
have not been made public, that is perhaps better than any thing 
else that can be used. But as this is sometimes difficult to obtain, 
crocus or oxid of tin may be used in its stead. In using crocus, 
for the best possible result, first graduate it in oil same as in pre- 
paring diamond dust, (see sec. 3, part second,) and apply it to the 
steel by means of a piece of soft iron or bell metal, made proper 
form, and prepared with flour of emery, same as for pivot bur- 
nishers. Use the coarsest of the crocus first, and finish off with 
the finest. 

The crocus, or whatever polishing powder is used, should always 
be carefully protected from dust or dirt. To iron or Soft steel a 
better finish may be given by burnishing than can be imparted 
by the use of polishing powder of any kind whatever. 

Section 12.— Best Mode of Case-hardening Iron. 
Heat the article to a red heat; then stir the part you desire to 
harden in cyanid of potash (powdered), and plunge it into cold 
water. If not found sufliciently hard the first trial, repeat the 
operation, increasing the degree of heat. It will come out smooth 
and hard as tempered steel. If you desire to harden to any con- 
siderable depth, put the article into a crucible with cyanid of 
potash, cover over and heat altogether, then plunge into water. 
This process will harden perfectly to the depth of two or three 
inches. 

Section 13.— How to File or Grind perfectly Level. 

The most perfect way to do this is to place the article in a lathe, 
resting on pivots at the two extreme centers, and then file or grind 
square across it. (In this way it will be found impossible to file 
other than level.) A simple substitute for the lathe, however, 
may be found by poising the article on the end of the finger, in 
such position that it will sway readily, as the handle of the file 
may be elevated or depressed while operating. 

Section 14.— Very simple Modes of Lengthening Levers of Anchor 
Escapement Watches without Hammering or Soldering. 

Cut square across with a screw head file, a little back from the 
point above the fork, and when you have thus cut into it to a 
sufficient depth, bend forward the desired distance the piece thus 
partially detached. In the event of the piece snapping off while 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 29 

bending — which, however, rarely happens — file down the point 
level with the fork, and then drill a hole at base of the fork, and 
insert a pin — English lever style. 

Section 15. — To reduce the Strength of Hair-springs of Watches 
without detaching from Collets, and without changing the Color 
of the visible parts of the Spring. 

First slip the collet off from the staff or cylinder, without re- 
moving it from the spring; then put a little diluted nitric or sul- 
phuric acid into a watch-glass, and immerse therein the inner 
coil or coils only of the spring. This may be done by holding 
down the center of the spring with a bit of peg-wood; then, seizing 
the outer coil with a pair of tweezers, lift the spring into the form 
of an inverted cone, and, while in this position, immerse the center 
coil or coils in the acid. When sufficiently reduced in strength, 
wash off first in water, then in alcbhol, and dry with tissue paper; 
then dip it into sulphuric ether, and dry by evaporation. 

Or, if preferred, the following is a good process : First detach 
the spring from the collet; then pass a bit of round peg-wood 
through the center coil, and fasten it in your vice. This done, 
flatten a piece of soft steel wire so that it will pass between the 
coils of the spring, and with this and pulverized oil-stone and 
oil grind off the center coil, or that immediately surrounding the 
peg-wood. Five or six rubs thus, with the wire and pulverized 
oil-stone, will make a difference of ten to fifteen minutes per day 
in the running of the watch. 

By both these processes, simple in their operation, the quality 
and value of the spring remain wholly unimpaired. 

Section 16.— To put Teeth into Wheels of Watches or Clocks 
without Dovetailing or Soldering. 

Drill a hole, somewhat wider than the tooth, square through 
the plate, a little below the base of the tooth, and, with a saw of 
the same thickness as the tooth, cut from the edge of the wheel 
square down to the hole already drilled. Then flatten a piece of 
wire so as to fit snugly into the cut of the saw, and with a light 
hammer form a head on it like the head of a pin. When thus 
prepared, press the wire or pin into position in the wheel, the head 
filling the hole drilled through the plate, and the end projecting 
out so as to form the tooth. Then with a sharp -pointed graver 
cut a small groove each side of the pin from the edge of the wheel 
down to the hole, and with a blow of your hammer spread the 
face of the pin so as to fill the grooves just cut. Repeat the same 



30 watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 

operation on the other side of the wheel, and finish off in the 
u-ual way. The tooth will be found perfectly rive'ed in on every 
side, and as ^'ong as the original one, while in appearance it will 
be quite equal to the best dovetailing. 

Section 17.— To Polish Wheels perfectly without Rounding Edges 
of th3 Arms op Teeth, or Clogging with Polishing Powders. 

Take a flat burnishing file, warm it over a spirit lamp, and coat 
it lightly with beeswax. When cold, wipe oft" as much of the wax 
as can be readily removed, and with your file thus prepared polish 
the wheel, resting the wheel while polishing on a piece of cork. 
The finihfh produced will be quite equal to the finest buff polish, 
while there will be no clogging, and the edges of the arms and 
teeih will remain perfectly square. 

Section 18. — Various Modes of preventing Chains of Watches from 
running off the Fusee. 

The proper mode of doing this must of course depend upon 
the nature of the difliculty. If it results from the fusee not being 
upright, of course the proper remedy is to upright it. If the 
fault is in the chain, it may generally be obviated by shifting the 
chain end for end. If, however, the fault is in the fusee, the 
result either of breakage or wear, other means have to be resorted 
to. In some cases, filing off a very little from the outer lower 
edge of the chain, evenly the entire length, so as to make a slightly 
acute angle of the lower inner corner, will effectually prevent run- 
ning off. The effect of filing thus is to cause the top part of the 
chain to draw a little off from the body part of the i'u>ee, and the 
lower part from the same cause to draw close in against it. If, 
however, the fusee is so damaged as not to have left adequate 
support for the chain, the only way is to recut it, or to throw it 
out of perpendicular, with the top of winding arbor declining 
somewhat from the barrel. The effect of throwing thus out of 
perpendicular will be to cause the chain necessarily to draw close 
down against the body part of the fusee; in which case, even 
though the outer rim or guard be entirely gone, the chain will not 
run off. 

Section 19. — To alter the Depth of Escapement of Lever Watches. 

1. Cummou Watches. — Knock out the staff, and with a small 
file or with emery powder cut the hole oblong, in the opposite 
direction to what you desire to move the pallets; then replace the 



WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELER'S HAND-BOOK. 31 

staff, wedge it into position with a bit of brass, and carefully 
solder. 

2. When the staff is put in with a screw^ as in Swiss watches. — 
Take out the staff, separate the lever from the pallets, and counter- 
sink the pin-holes on the inner sides; then replace the parts, and, 
with the edge of the lever resting on a steel stake, place a punch 
of proper form on the edge of the pallets, and by a smart blow 
of your hammer bend the pins, uniting the pallets and lever, in 
the direction and to the extent you desire. 

3. Very fine Watches. — Put in a new staff, and in making your 
pivots throw them to one side from the center, the exact distance 
you desire to alter the escapement; or, in other words, make what 
are known as eccentric pivots to your staff. 

Section 20.— Rules for determining the correct length of the 
Lever, size of Ruby Pin Table, size of the Pallets, and Depth 
of Escapement of Lever Watches. 

A lever, from the guard point to the pallet staff, should corre- 
spond in length with twice the diameter of the ruby pin table; 
and when a table is accidentally lost, the correct size thereof may 
be known by measuring half the length of the lever between the 
points above named. For correct size of pallet, the clear space 
between the pallets should correspond with the outside measure, 
on the points, of three teeth of the escapemeiit wheel. The only 
rule that can be given, without the use of diagrams, for correct 
depth of the escapement, is to set it close as it will bear, and still 
free itself perfectly when in motion. This may be done by first 
placing the escapement in your depthing tool, and there setting it 
to the correct depth. Then by measuring the distance between 
the pivots of the lever staff and escapement wheel, as now set, and 
the corresponding pivot holes in the watch, you determine correctly 
how much the depth of the escapement requires to be altered. 

Section 21.— Simple Rule for putting Cylinder Escapement and 
Skeleton Lever Watches in Beat. 

All watchmakers know that, to be in proper beat, the hair-spring 
of a watch must be so placed that, in cylinder escapements, the 
square cut across the center of the cylinder, when at rest, will 
stand in line with the stud or outer fastening of the hair-spring, 
and at exact right angles with a line from the center of the escape- 
ment wheel to the center of the cylinder; and in lever watches, 
so that the ruby pin will stand in direct line between the balance 
staff and fulcrum point or staff of the lever. In all skeleton 



32 watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 

watches, therefore, where the regulator is placed on the cock above 
the balance, the simplest mode of securing these results is to put 
the cock into position in the watch, and move the regulator thereon, 
so that, if a cylinder, it will stand in line with the center of the 
escapement wheel, and, if a lever, with the center of the pallet 
staiF; then, on turning over the cock in order to fasten the hair- 
spring in its place, the position of the regulator will indicate the 
direction of the escapement wheel from the cylinder, or of the lever 
staff from the balance staff; and all that is necessary in order to 
put the watch in perfect beat without further trial, will be to fasten 
the hair spring so as to cause the square cut of the cylinder to 
stand at right angles with the regulator, as placed, or the ruby 
pin of the lever in direct line therewith. In cases where the 
regulator is placed on the plate of the watch, instead of the cock 
the foregoing rule will, of course, not apply, and other means 
have to be employed to determine when the collet is in proper 
position on the staff. 

Section 22.— Simple Mode of Tightening a Cannon Pinion on the 
Center Arbor when too loose. 

Grasp the arbor lightly with a pair of cutting nippers, and by 
a single turn of the nippers around the arbor cut or raise a small 
thread thereon. This will be found to work more satisfactorily 
and is less trouble than putting in a hair, as practiced by many. 

Section 23. — To loosen Screws that have become Rusted in, and 
to remove Rust, Hardened Grease, etc., from Iron and Steel, 
and to protect them from Rust. 

For cleaning purposes, etc., kerosene oil or benzine are probably 
the best things known. Where articles have become pitted by 
rust, however, these can of course only be removed by mechanical 
means, such as scouring with fine powder, or flour of emery and 
oil, or with very fine emery paper. To prevent steel from rusting, 
rub it with a mixture of lime and oil, or with mercurial ointment; 
either of which will be found valuable. 

Section 24. — How to restore Magnetized Iron or Steel to its nor- 
mal condition, and to expel Quicksilver from Metals that have 
become coated or impregnated therewith. 

To withdraw magnetism from steel, etc., cover the article with 
the juice of common garlic, and then warm it over a spirit lamp. 
It need not be heated so much as to draw the temper or to blue 
the steel. Quicksilver is expelled by heating only. A degree of 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 33 

heat considerably below that necessary to redden the metal will 
expel the quicksilver in the form of vapor. 

Section 25.— Simple mode of determining tiie exact Focal Dis- 
tance of Spectacle Glasses. 

Place the end of a measure of thirty or forty inches in length 
against a smooth wall, or other suitable ground, in plain view of 
some well-defined object a few rods distant, as for instance a 
building or window on the opposite side of the street. Then place 
the edge of your lens on the measure, and move it backward or 
forward until a spectrum is formed, or, in other words, until a clear 
and distinct outline of the distant object is produced on the ground 
against which your measure rests. This point will represent, 
sufficiently near, for all practical purposes, the exact focal distance 
of the lens, and will correspond in inches with the number on 
all properly marked convex spectacles. 

For mending fine steel spectacle frames, use the best gold in 
preference to silver or brass solder. 



PART THIRD, 

BMBEAOING PROCESSES THAT REQUIRE THE FUSING OR MELTING OF 
THE ARTICLES EMPLOYED. 

Section I.— How to nvake Gold, Silver, Brass, Tin, Zinc Solders. 

Gold Solder, for Fourteen to Sixteen-carat Work. 

Recipe — Gold coin, 1 dwt.; pure silver, 9 gr.; pure copper, 6 
gr. ; brass, 3 gr. 

Melt together in charcoal fire; and for finer work, as eighteen 
to twenty-two carat, use a larger proportion of gold coin. Or the 
following may be used in its stead, when a darker-colored solder is 
desired : 

Recipe — Gold coin, 1 dwt.; pure copper, 8 gr.; pure silver, 
5 gr.; brass, 2 gr. 

Silver Solder.— First Recipe— Silver, two parts; brass, one 
part. 

Second Recipe — Silvet- and common brass pin tongues^ equal 
parts. This latter solder flows at a much lower temperature than 
the first; and the use of pin tongues in its preparation will be 
found to answer a much better purpose than unprepared brass 
would, in the same proportion. 



34 watchmaker's and jewelers' hand-book. 

Brass Solder. — Recipe — Two parts brass ; one part zinc. 

T[N Solder. — Recipe — Two parts zinc; one part lead. 

The above is the ordinary formula for tin or soft solder, but for 
a solder that will flow at a very low temperature, not exceeding 
that of boiling water, use five parts bismuth; three parts tin; two 
parts lead. 

Zinc Solder {Liquid for causing tin solder to flow on steely 
iron^ etc.) — Recipe — Best muriatic acid, 2 oz. ; sheet zinc, as much 
as the acid will dissolve; sal ammoniac, J- oz. ; rain-water, 1 oz. 

First dissolve the zinc in the acid, and then add the sal ammo- 
niac and water. 

Section 2.— To make Cement for repairing Fractured Jet and 
Stone Jewelry, and other similar goods. 

Dissolve sufficient shell-lac in ninety-eight per cent, alcohol, to 
make it about the consistency of prepared glue. Apply this to 
the fractured edges; then press them closely together, and heat 
over a spirit lamp sufficiently to evaporate or expel the alcohol. 

Section 3.— Chinese Cement for Fractured Glass, China, Earthen- 
ware, etc. 

One of the very best cements known for the purposes indicated. 
It may also be used with equal success for repairing jet and stone 
jewelry, etc., by coloring it to the shade desired. 

Recipe — White glue, 4 oz. ; pure isinglass, 1 oz. ; finely ground 
dry white lead, J oz.; clear water, J pt; alcohol, 2 oz. 

Heat the water, and dissolve in it the glue and isinglass, taking 
care not to scorch or burn them in the operation. Then remove 
from the fire, and, while cooling, mix in first the white lead and 
then the alcohol. Incorporate all thoroughly together, and bottle 
for use. 

Directions for use. — ^Warm the cement until it becomes 
liquified, and warm slightly the article to be mended; then apply 
a thin coating of the cement evenly to the fractured edges, and 
press them closely together until they become firmly set. After 
mending, the article should be allowed to stand for a few days 
before using. 

Section 4.— How to protect Stone and Paste Set-rings, etc., from 
Damage by Heat while mending. 

Cover the head or set part of the ring, or other article, with a 
thick coating of dampened plaster of paris. You may then pro- 
ceed with your mending without the least danger of damaging the 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 35 

settings; or, in all ordinary cases, simply imbedding the head or 
top of the ring in a piece of green apple or potato will answer 
the same purpose, with much less trouble. A light coating of 
dampened plaster of paris will, if properly applied, also protect 
fine Etruscan jewelry, etc., from change of color while mending; 
which is often a matter of very considerable importance. 



Section 5.— To Refine Gold, Silver, and Copper, and to separate 
them from each other. 

If in detached pieces, and mixed with baser metals, as in the 
case of scraps, filings, etc., melt all together in a crucible, with 
saltpeter and common potash. Use charcoal in melting, and leave 
in the fire about one hour. Then pour out, and when cold, swedge 
with a hammer and roll very thin; then cut into narrow strips, 
and coil slightly to prevent laying down flat. When thus pre- 
pared, immerse the coiled strips in nitric acid, same as for dissolv- 
ing silver only. (See sec. 1, part first.) The acid will eat out 
or dissolve the silver and copper, holding them in solution, while 
the gold will be found in the form of a yellow powder at the bottom 
of the vessel. When fully dissolved, in this way, drain off the 
silver and copper solution into another vessel, and wash and rinse 
the gold sediment thoroughly with clean water, pouring the water 
each time of washing into the vessel containing the solution pre- 
viously poured off. After washing thus, and drying, melt the 
gold again in a crucible, and run it through a sieve into water, (by 
this means it is precipitated in small lumps or nuggets, convenient 
for mixing with other metals,) or into bars, to suit taste or con- 
venience. 

The water used in washing the gold, and poured into the silver 
and copper solution, should not exceed in proportion, one quart of 
water to two ounces of the acid first used ; as this is about the 
proportion of water to be added preparatory to collecting the silver 
in solution ; which may now be done by immersing in the solution 
a sheet of clean copper, on which the silver will collect, but may 
be readily scraped off. After collecting and precipitating, in this 
way, all the silver in solution, drain off the copper solution, now 
remaining, into another vessel, and then wash and rinse the silver 
with clean water, and dry and melt it the same as the gold. The 
copper now in solution may be collected by immersing in it a piece 
of iron on which the copper will collect, same as the silver did on 
the copper plate. Thus you have the gold, silver, and copper all 
separate, and in a perfectly pure state. 



36 watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 

For mixing of gold or for alloying it with silver or copper, the 
foregoing is the best possible form or state in which they can be 
had; for, being in themselves perfectly pure, you may know with 
certainty — what is often very desirable — the exact proportion of 
each that you are using. 

Section 6.— To make best Eighteen-carat Gold, for Rings, etc. 

Formula — 18 parts pure gold; 4 parts pure copper; 2 parts 
pure silver; or, as a near approximate to the above, the following: 
19 J- gr, gold coin; 3 gr. pure copper; 1^ gr. pure silver. 

Gold coin already containing about 2 parts in 24 of silver and 
copper alloy, the foregoing are probably as near the exact propor- 
tions of alloy that should be used with coin as can be arrived at. 

Nugget gold varies in quality generally from twenty to twenty- 
three, and sometimes twenty-three and a half (or even finer) 
carats — generally a large proportion, and sometimes the entire of 
the alloy, being silver. 

20 gr. pure gold to 4 gr. pure silver, gives a beautiful green- 
colored gold, for leaves of pins, etc., and to alloy with copper only 
gives a reddish color to the gold. 

Section 7.— To make Cheap Gold. 

For grades of gold below eighteen carat, the taste of the operator 
will generally guide him with sufficient accuracy ; bearing in mind 
that the proportions of alloy to be used should be about in the 
ratio of two parts copper to one of silver. Brass should never 
be used in alloying gold, except for solders, as the zinc contained 
in it does not combine satisfactorily with the gold. 

Formula, for best twelve-carat gold : 25 gr. gold coin ; 13J- gr. 
pure copper; 7J gr. pure silver. 

For a very cheap red gold the following is a good formula: 
18 parts copper ; 4 parts gold ; 2 parts silver. This makes a 
four-carat gold that answers a good purpose for cheap rings, pin 
tongues, etc. 

Section 8.— Imitations of Gold. 

First Formula — Platina, 4 dwt.; pure copper, 2 J dwt.; 
sheet zinc, 1 dwt.; block tin, If dwt.; pure lead, IJ dwt. 

If the composition should be found too hard or brittle for prac- 
tical use, re -melting it with a little sal ammoniac will generally 
render it malleable as desired. For all purposes of melting, char- 
coal should be used, instead of stone-coal, which always renders 
the gold or composition brittle and unmalleable. 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 37 

Second Formula — Platina, 2 parts; silver, 1 part; copper, 
3 parts. 

These compositions, when properly prepared, so nearly resemble 
pure gold, that it is extremely difficult to distinguish them there- 
from. A little powdered charcoal mixed with metals while melting 
will be found of service. 

Section 9.— Best Oreid of Gold. 

Formula. — Pure copper, 4 oz.; sheet zinc, 1| oz.; magnesia, 
I oz.; sal ammoniac, ji oz.; quick lime, -^\ oz.; cream tartar, 

1 oz. 

First melt the copper, at as low a temperature as it will melt, 
then add the zinc, and afterward the other articles, in powder, in 
the order named. 

Section 10.— Very superior Bushing Alloy, for Pivot Holes, etc. 

Recipe — 3 dwt. gold coin; 1 dwt. 20 gr. silver; 3 dwt. 20 gr. 
copper: 1 dwt. palladium. 

This alloy, for the purpose named, is one of the very best 
known. It is very hard, producing but slight friction when 
brought into contact with steel; will not corrode; and in prac- 
tical use is little inferior to the finest jeweling. 

Section II.— To make Alloyed and Imitation Silver, for Medals, etc. 

First Formula — Pure silver, 3 oz.; copper, J oz.; brass, 

2 oz.; bismuth, 1 oz.; saltpeter, 2 oz.; table-salt, 2 oz.; white 
arsenic, 1 oz. ; common potash, 1 oz. 

Melt together in charcoal fire, adding a little borax to make it 
run readily. 

Second Formula — Pure copper, 1 dwt.; block tin, 25 dwt.; 
pure antimony, 2 dwt. ; pure bismuth, J- dwt. 

Section 12.— To make White Metal. 

Formula — Brass, 2 oz. ; lead, 2 J oz. ; block tin, 2 J oz. ; bis- 
muth, 1 J oz. ; antimony J oz. Melt all together. 

Section 13. — To make best German Silver. 
Recipe — Copper, 25 parts; zinc, 15 parts; nickel, 10 parts. 

Section 14.— To make Queen's Metal. 
Recipe — Block tin, 2J- lb.; lead, J- lb.; antimony, J lb. 



38 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 



PART FOURTH 



GENERAL PRICE LTST FOR WATCH REPAIRING; PRESENTING, IN TWO 
SEPARATE COLUiMNS, A FAIR AVERAGE OF THE PREVAILING PRICES 
THAT OBTAIN IN DIFFERENT SECTIONS OF THK UNITED STATES AT 
THE PRESENT TIME— THE HIGHER RATES APPLYING TO THE SOUTH, 
AND TO A FEW OF THE LARGER CITIKS AT THE NORTH, AND THE 
LOWER RATES TO MOST OF THE OTHER SECTIONS. 



ARTICLES. 



A. 

Arbors, barrel, where the ratchet goes 
on a square, new 

Arbors, barrel, where the ratchet goes 
on with screws 



Barrels, verge and English lever, new 
Barrels, Swiss and American lever and 

lepine, new 

Bushing, with brass, each hole 

Bushing, with bushing alloy 

Bushing, main wheel hole, with alloy 



Chains, fusee, common, new 

Chains, fusee, medium, new 

Chains, fusee, best English, new 

Chains, fusee, mending and new hook, 

each 

Cleaning common verge watches... 
Cleaning lever and lepine watches- 
Cleaning chron. and duplex watches 
Cleaning rep'ting and musical watches 

Clicks, barrel, short, new 

Clicks, barrel, self-acting, new 

Clicks, fusee, new 

Clicks, maintaining, new 

Collets, balance-spring, new 

Cylinders, Swiss and English, new.... 



AVERAOE RATES 
NORTH. 



Dials, common, new 

Dials, with plain seconds or with key- 
hole, new 

Dials, English sunk seconds 

Depths, escapement, altering of. 

Depths, wheels, altering of. 



$1 50 to $2 00 
2 25 to 2 50 

2 00 to 2 50 



3 00 to 
40 to 
75 to 

1 50 to 



2 50 to 



40 to 



40 to 



2 50 to 

4 00 to 

50 to 



1 00 

1 50 

2 50 to 3 00 



3 50 to 4 00 



2 00 

3 00 
5 00 
2 00 
1 00 



AVERAGE RATES 
SOUTH. 



$2 00 to $2 50 

3 00 to 3 50 

4 00 to 5 00 



00 to 
50 to 
00 to 
00 to 



1 00 to 



2 50 to 

4 00 to 

5 00 to 

2 00 to 
50 to 

75 to 
5 00 to 



3 00 to 
5 00 to 
1 00 to 
1 50to 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 



39 



ARTICLES. 



AVERAGE RATES 
NORTH. 



AVERAGE RATES 

SOUTH. 



P. 



Forks, lever, new 

Followers, English potance. new , 

Followers, Swiss potance, with screws, 

new 

Fusees to common verge watches, new 
Fusees to English lever watches, new.. 
Fusees, repairing, to prevent chain run- 
ning off. 



Jewels, common cap, new 

Jewels, diamond cap, new 

Jewels, slip, new 

Jewels, plate, hole, for center, third, 

fourth, and escapement wheels 

Jewels, plate, hole, for main wheel.... 
Jewels, replacing, with bushing alloy, 

in main wheel 

Jewels, pallet, each, new 

Jewels, English hole, set with screws 

new , 

Jewels, ruby pin, new , 

Jewels, duplex roller, new , 



P. 

Pallets, detached and patent lever, new 

Pinions, cannon, new 

Pinions, all others, each, new 

Pivots, pallet staff, each, new 

Pivots, all others, each, new 

Plugs, cylinder, each, new 



R. 

Ratchets, barrel and fusee, common 
each, new , 

Ratchets, barrel, to levers and lepines, 
new , 

Ratchets, maintaining, new 



s. 

Screws, all kinds, new 

Springs, common main, new 

Springs, lever and lepine main, new... 
Springs, balance or hair, common, new 
Springs,. balance or hair, best, new,. 



$3 00 to 



50 to 
50 to 



$4 00 
50 

1 00 

3 00 

4 00 



75 to 1 50 



1 00 to 
1 50 to 



2 00 to 
1 50 to 



2 50 to 



3 00 to 
1 50 to 



1 25 to 



50 to 

75 to 
1 50 to 



25 to 

1 50 to 

75 to 

1 00 to 



75 
1 50 
1 50 



5 00 
2 00 
2 00 
1 00 
1 50 
1 50 



75 



1 50 

2 00 



50 

1 50 

2 00 
1 00 
1 50 



$3 50 to $5 00 
75 

1 50 to 2 00 

3 00 

3 50 to 5 00 

1 00 to 2 50 



00 to 
00 to 
00 to 

50 to 
50 to 



2 50 to 



4 00 to 



00 to 
00 to 
00 to 
00 to 
50 to 
00 to 



2 00 

3 00 
2 00 



3 00 

2 00 

3 00 
1 50 
5 00 



5 00 
5 00 
5 00 
1 50 
3 00 
3 00 



50 to 1 00 





75 to 


1 50 


1 


50 to 


2 00 




50 to 


1 00 

2 50 

3 00 


1 


25 to 


1,50 


1 


60 to 


2 50 



V 

40 



watchmaker's and jeweler's hand-book. 



ARTICLES. 



AVEBAGE BATES 
NOETH. 



AVEBAGE BATES 
SOUTH. 



Springs, bal. or hair, isochronous, new 

Springs, balance or hair, English chro- 
nometer, new 

Springs, catch and lifting, each, new.. 

Springs, fusee click, new 

Springs, click, lepine and lever, 
straight, new 

Springs, click, lepine and lever, cir- 
cular, new 

Springs, maintaining click 

Springs, bal. or hair, altering set of... 

Springs, bal. or hair, reduc'g strength of 

Springs, main, new hook to 

Staff, balance, new 

Staff, pallet, new 

Staff, rack lever and verticle, each, new 

Staff, rack lever balance, new 

Staff, duplex 

Stops, lepine, each piece, new 

Stops, fusee, new 

Studs, balance spring, new 

Studs, cap, new 

T. 

Teeth, putting in two or more together, 

each 

Teeth, putting in one only 

V. 

Verges, French and English, new 

W. 

Wheels, common main, new 

Wheels, lever and lepine main, new... 

Wheels, center, 3d and 4th, each, new 

Wheels, escapement, lever 

Wheels, escapement, duplex and cyl- 
inder, each, new 

Wheels, hour, new 

Wheels, minute, without pinion, new 

Wheels, minute, with pinion, new 

Wheels, balance, plain, new 

Wheels, balance, expansion, new 

Wheels, balance, expalnsion, adjusted 
to heat and cold..... 



$2 50 t9 $3 00 

5 00 

1 50 to 2 00 

50 to 75 

1 00 



50 to 
50 to 



50 to 

75 to 



50 to 



$3 00 to 

5 00 to 

3 00 to 

75 to 



50 to 
00 to 
50 to 
75 to 
75 to 



8 00 to 
75 to 



1 00 to 









25 






50 








50 






1 00 






2 


00 


2 


50 to 


3 00 






2 


00 


2 


50 to 


3 50 


3 


00 to 


4 


00 


4 


00 to 


5 00 


2 


00 to 


2 
2 


50 
50 


2 


00 to 


3 00 
3 00 


3 


00 to 


3 

1 
1 
2 


50 
25 
25 
50 


4 


00 to 


5 00 
2 00 

2 00 

3 00 


1 


50 to 


2 


00 


2 


50 to 


3 50 


4 


00 to 


5 


00 


5 


00 to 


7 00 



10 00 to 12 00 



12 00 t© 



<: mL:<l 



•: <^^L..^ 












-_Z^CC 



CCC 






« 

4 


« ^'" ^ 


e ^x 






4 


iC c<(-< ^ 


en *crc 


t 


It^'oQ tfi 


t ^ 


4 


ir^^^^. m 


IL 


i: 'X 41 


|t . <[~(C 


<9Z.'< 4 




Kr^^m'_ 


ML t^v 


<9z:<< < 


13^ 




^- ^ 


V_'.^ 


^"^'v^Vt 


■jT 


^ <Zc 




,, 1 


Z Cci 


^'c*?i * 


<flH 


feL <Z<i 


%^<^X i 




^ ^f 


CKl <('"<: 


C-^ 








^L C' c 4H 


Bcn." <jc£ 


SCT <^^ c. #B 


WL. C^ 


BC„--''-<' ^ 


1^^ c_c 


k: <i''C ^ 


j^^~" cr?j 


tcrc <il 


Stj;,'^ cx 


ji^^B^^^x 


HC^ C€^ 


u<^^-< <* 


wcr xxi 


P CSC 5 


wtr cc 


^. c<ic. « 


mCL cc^ 




cc r' 


<4 


i^^L^ct^ 



^ c <!<: <j<^ 






cr<cc<s. 
crc dec 



c 


jC 




<r 


. c 


■c 


c c 


c 


c c 


<7 


c c 


:. <f- 


cc 


c 


•c C 


c 


cc 


Q 


<: <; 


rC ' 


c C 


c 


CC 


:C 


c C 


c 



CTCcc 

<:iccc 
<:ccc 
^rccs 

-^C cc 



tCi( ^r? 


C''/' 


^Clftcr 


L C'C 


^^. ^^' 


^ " O d ' 


^C3l'- ^~ 


C''^ 


^5'^ 


C f w^ 


^S:^!^ 


C'C 


^s^Z^ 


C <i 


'Ci ^T' 


C f <! 


CjrCT 


C <:Jv 


^T^^"" 


C C cC 


C? C" 




■ <2<i ; 


C ., r 


*^C' 


c • ■ 


^^ 


Cl ^"' '-•' 


^c 


c: cc 


cc 


d cc 


CC 


d C(C 


c^ 


^- c<^ 




c etc 


cci. 


d c« 


Cc 


C <<:t 


^ 


^ 'J^ 


C C<L 


^ 


d CCS 


cc i 


C <<£ 



^^ 



c:c«: 

dcrc cc 

dC C cjt 

dd'C: CS 
ddd c< 

ddC OC 
Cdc cc 
ddc c<: 

ccr ctC 
CCC Cd 
ccc cd 

- CCC Cd 



*^:-- ^ 









dC 



^x^ 


^ - Vj^Jk«J*45|^< 


;J 


^:. 


a^ ' 




d'' ^K_ 




"'' ^I 


^CiTcc^ < 


Cct <Z?SC ^^ ? < 


^1^ 


- ^ 


&jt 




"^ti.; ^^ 


^CSL C^^~ 4 


czc ci-iK^ «:tc 4 


^p^ 


'"' J 


w=ifm' 




f ' ^ — 


^^ t 




f 


:e:£^'' 


^t^ 


^^C < 


^ •(" ^^^T^iSii- ^CL '^ 


^ <s 


XT ' C 


c_ 




■ ■ C! '€> 


^f 1 


^ c ^^'«Bld<Sc 


<I S 


CC 




c; 


IS 


I C ^Z*^Cj!E1c^ < 


cr ^ 




L c 4C ^^jisj- '"cir ^ 


^c 


^Cl 


c 


< CTrt 


^O ^ 


V? ^^:^^ 5 




^ 


c: 


'*;- cr<c 




'd^ 


C^CT. ^T 


C <£!_ ■■-■■-*<.! '€^1 <X!I 


c 


^Z. " 


(^ 


CC < 


<C<Ii <CI1 


c ^C-.^Xi _X1~ ^i; 


c: 


g^ 


Ci 


c<c 


CCC^ <^ 


'C^ ^dl^'SL.^i-i -C"" ^c 


c 


^d 


<: 




«^<c <r 


C '^C^ ^C'C^ <!' ^tT" 


"^ c 


' ^gr 


c: 


« < 




c '^^^CT^dT ^C"" 


c 


^ST 


r 


O '^ 


d ci^ ^ir 


C ^SC. ^'Kl CT f^^ 


■<; 


^cr 


c 


c<^ « 


<ccr ^11 


C 4d *sOliCL ^^ 


■< 


^^T 


CCl c 


<^ci *cri 


•c «Kn«'i<r<r, 4Mcr 


c^ 


OCl 




c^ ^ 


c3ci ^I^H 


*1 "^B^ '^^<cL (^ ^B^T^ 


c 


^^C~ 




c-r rf 


CjC ^ ^H 


'C ^KZL^dCl ^^^ 


C 


^XT 


CO C 


<r <;^ \ ^TT 


't ^dl*CiC^<Z ' ^r^' 


<: 


<^cr 


CCr «^ 


^ci ' ^£r 


t "^^ ^^d^S!"<S-'<!Z ^tfr*^ " 


<: 


^gr' ^ 


c: 


■ ^-"c- ^^p- 


CC ^^^ 


C C- *^[Zc^3iC~ ^CT'v' 


C 


^^KZ' 


C( 


'^^^ ^c^ 


CC ^d^ * 


c <^ ^tr^oc'C^' ^dT* 


c 


^ShZ 


c< 


'^'' ^^ 


CC ^^="' 


kC' c ^cc?r<r ^t"< 


<<: 


^r 


CC 


^ ^r^ 



